Apply for these!!!

http://www.rpscollective.com/new.php

http://www.calumetphoto.com/ctl?ac.ui.pn=photooftheweek
www.sanfranmag.com
email your image to...
click@sanfranmag.com.




REMEMBER WE ARE MEETING AT SFMOMA on thursday...

FIELDTRIP to Moma THURSDAY

please look at this site for more info on Lee Miller

http://www.sfmoma.org/media/features/miller/index.html
We Will meet in the Lobby @ 6:30PM SHARP Thursday July 10th
if you are late just go in yourself

ADDRESS

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art
151 Third Street (between Mission and Howard Streets)
San Francisco, CA 94103
Telephone: 415.357.4000
Fax: 415.357.4037

Take Bart to Montgomery Station

Directions...
http://www.sfmoma.org/visit/visitinfo_directions.html

Regular Museum Admission Ticket
Adults $12.50
Seniors
(62 years and older) $8.00
Students (with current ID) $7.00
SFMOMA members and children 12 and under, accompanied by an adult FREE
Thursday evenings
(6:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.) Half-price admission
First Tuesday of each month FREE


Tuesday, July 01, 2008 - Sunday, September 14, 2008

"One of the most unconventional female artists of the 20th century, Lee Miller was admired for her classical beauty, intelligence, and photographic talent. This retrospective spans her career as a photographer and explores her transformation from muse and model to groundbreaking artist in her own right. Born in New York in 1907, Miller modeled for Vogue before meeting Man Ray in Paris in 1929. Inspired by his work, Miller began creating her own striking surrealist photographs. Later, she became a war photographer for British Vogue and was the only woman in combat photojournalism in Europe during World War II. After the war, she continued a nimble photographic practice, with later work including high-comedy portraits of art-world friends such as Max Ernst, Alfred H. Barr Jr., and Saul Steinberg."---SF Moma Site

NEW ASSIGNMENT

DIPTYCH : People, Places, Things



For this assignment you will create 5 diptychs. Use your 350 shots to photograph PEOPLE, PLACES, and THINGS—you should shoot at least three rolls for each topic. Pay attention to quality of light—try shooting in the early evening, in the fog, in various kinds of artificial light, at night with long shutter speeds, etc. Remember to make INTERESTING IMAGES that will work well in pairs.

Your first 40 shots should be 400 ISO or less and should be shot between the hours of 10am and 2pm outside on a bright day. Make sure to make contact sheets of all your images.

40 must be slower than 400 ISO
40 must be 400 ISO
40 must be 800 ISO or above (Assuming your camera lets you shoot @ 800+)
The rest of the shots are your choice.

Over the next few class you will be bringing in Raw images to work on using Adobe Raw. The images will be placed next to each other in diptychs. Examples will be shown in class. You will be outputting onto 8.5x11 paper using the Epson printer.

Print Day July Wednesday 16/ Thursday 17 Class will be split up


Project due : Beginning of Class Monday July 21

helpful hints for retouching

RESTORATION



1) Always crop and make general contrast and color adjustments before you begin patching, healing and cloning.

2) Only consider using the Dust and Scratches Filter on areas with no significant background texture, like open skies.

3) Start with the Patch Tool at Fit on Screen or Print Size view to correct larger areas that need repair.

4) Always do your precise repairs in Actual Pixels view.

6) It is not always possible to match the original exactly . You have 2 and a bit class periods to retouch and print your image.

Making Selections

When you have made a selection only that area will be effected by corrections.

Selections are identified by the famous “marching ants”.

The Quick Selection Tool allows you to make simple selections within areas defined by tonalities or colors.

The Marquee Tools allow you to draw geometric selections of various kinds.

The Lasso Tool allows you to manually draw an enclosed boundary around the pixels you want to edit.

Some common selection functions and conventions very handy to know:

* Hold down the Option key and draw to subtract from the selection area.
* Hold down the Shift key and draw to add to the selection area.
* Also use the Shift key to constrain drawing tools to right angles and straight lines.
* Use Comm + H to hide (and restore) the marching ants.
* Use Comm key to cut and float the selection area.
* Use Comm + J to copy and float a selection.
* Hit the “V” key to switch to the Move Tool to move the floated selection.
* Use Comm + Z to Undo one step and the History Palette to undo many steps

Restoration Tools

· The Patch Tool allows you to select and drag-match large areas with flaws. This works well when there are clean areas that are adjacent and have matching tonalities and textures.

Set to “Source” to restore large areas.

· The Spot Healing Brush (J) automatically samples from adjacent areas. This often works well on evenly-lit textures.

· The Healing Brush (J) allows you to select areas with matching textures and tonality.

Set to “Sampled” and hold down the Options Key to select from adjacent areas.

· The Clone Stamp Tool (S) copies matching pixels from adjacent areas or other Layers.

Also note that a useful trick is to use the above tools together with the Shift key to instantly edit long lines of areas that need retouching.

Quiz tomorrow

Quiz review (feel free to bring your camera to the quiz)

Noise


Converting file to B & W
DPI
RAW
JPEG
ISO
APERURE
SHUTTER/B SETTING/LONG EXPOSUre
RGB1998 and sRGB
Histogram
LAYERS (adjustment)
GREY CARD/Light meter

FOR MONDAY

remember to check out blogs and write comments...


BRING YOUR CAMERA


Look for an old photo to retouch...

Weekend Assignment

First 20 Shots Bracketing Assignment

Shoot using ISO 400
Choose situations where the lighting will stay virtually the same while you shoot. You will be photographing each given situation without moving the position or orientation of the camera.

Bracketing

Photograph your subject in direct sunlight. Note the frame, the meter reading (indicated f/stop and shutter speed for the ‘correct’ exposure), the actual exposure (the f/stop and shutter speed that you actually used), and your understanding of the affect of your actual exposure (i.e. is it overexposed one stop, underexposed one stop)

Take an exposure based on your in camera light meter reading. From the same place take two more frames underexposing your film a stop in each frame then take two more pictures overexposing your film a stop in each frame. Do this by adjusting your shutter speed.

Photograph in the shade and repeat the same process. This time adjust the under and over exposure using the lens aperture (f-stop).

At the end of this process, you will have shot ten frames.

Equivalent Exposure

Place your subject in a moderate lighting situation. Take a meter reading for the correct exposure with your aperture at f4 and record the shutter speed. Shoot a frame at this exposure. Proceed to make four additional exposures, each time changing the aperture (f-stop) by closing it down and adjusting the shutter speed accordingly to get the correct exposure each time. You should end up with five different frames of the same subject that are at the same exposure, all using five different combinations of f-stops and shutter speeds. Your f-stops should be f4, f5.6, f8, and f11, and your equivalent shutter speeds should be getting slower and slower.

Repeat this process in another setting.

At the end of this process, you will have shot ten more frames (20 frames total).

*NOTE: Some of your cameras have aperture settings that fall in between complete stops—familiarize yourself with the standard f-stops so that you know which apertures constitute a full stop. The equivalent exposure dial in the following pages should help with this.